By Gretchen McKay, Pittsburgh Post-Gazette
The weather may not be quite right yet, but as we move further into October, you know that breezy, sweatshirt-required weather will soon be upon us.
The inviting smell of burgers on the grill is starting to be replaced by the smell of the backyard fire pit, and it’s hard to walk a couple of blocks without seeing Halloween decorations.
The scene is a little different at your local farmers market or grocery produce section, too. Bins that just a few weeks ago were overflowing with sweet corn, peaches, and homegrown tomatoes now contain squash, root vegetables like beets, turnips, turnips, and other delicious greens, and an array of winter squash.
A perennial favorite is butternut squash, a peanut-shaped winter squash with yellow skin and sweet orange flesh.
They’re often roasted as a side dish because they’re so easy to peel, cut and cook—all you need to make them shine is a pinch of salt and a drizzle of olive oil—and the walnuts also make a great base for a creamy, super-nutritious seasonal soup.
This recipe from Tara Bononi’s upcoming cookbook, “Vegana Italiana” (Rodale Books, $32.50) is a great option for vegans and people on a dairy-free diet. It’s packed with veggies and is also suitable for those trying to get more plant-based meals into their weekly rotation.
It starts with an aromatic, mirepoix-like mixture of onions, carrots, and celery sautéed in olive oil. The aromatic broth that cooks the vegetables after adding the squash chunks also includes garlic, ginger and coconut milk, adding a wonderful creaminess and wonderful coconut flavour.
The original recipe called for a teaspoon each of cinnamon and nutmeg, but I wasn’t quite ready to commit to Thanksgiving flavors. So I flavored the soup instead with curry powder and a pinch of red pepper. I also reduced the amount of coconut milk from three cans to two cans to make it less fattening.
It’s easy to puree soup directly in the bowl with an immersion blender. If you instead choose to liquefy it in a blender, be sure to let the soup cool for a few minutes in the blender bowl before pressing the power button, working in small batches. Also be sure to cover the top of the blender with a clean dish towel to prevent messy stains.
When purchasing, choose a heavy butternut squash with a smooth, unblemished skin and a dry, intact stem. Don’t worry when it’s time to peel it – unlike other thick-skinned winter squash like Blue Hubbard or Kabocha, butternut squash has a thin, delicate skin that comes off easily with a good vegetable peeler.
Paired with some thick pieces of buttered toast or a grilled cheese sandwich, this soup makes a filling midweek meal. In small portions, it’s also a delicious appetizer.
Walnut Squash Bisque
Tested by PG
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling
3 cups onions, cut into cubes (about 1 large)
3 cups carrots, cut into cubes (about 5 large carrots)
3 cups chopped celery (about 3 stalks)
A quarter cup of fresh ginger, peeled and chopped
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
8 cups peeled pumpkin and cut into cubes
2 15 oz cans of coconut milk
1 cup of water
2 tablespoons maple syrup
Peel of one orange (about 2 tablespoons)
1 teaspoon sea salt
1/4 teaspoon black pepper
A sprinkle of cinnamon
A generous pinch of nutmeg
1 tablespoon curry powder, or as desired
Thinly sliced green onions, for garnish
A quarter cup of fresh chopped parsley for garnish
2 tablespoons toasted pepitas, optional
In a large pot, heat olive oil over medium heat. Add onion, carrots, celery, garlic and ginger and sauté for 10 minutes.
Add the butternut squash and coconut milk to the bowl and stir to combine.
Cover the pot and leave the soup to boil over medium to high heat. Reduce heat to medium-low.
Leave the pot covered and simmer the soup, stirring occasionally, for 30 minutes or until the squash is fork tender.
Add water, maple syrup, orange zest, salt, pepper, cinnamon, nutmeg, and curry powder.
Use an immersion blender to blend until the soup has a smooth, creamy consistency. It should not be like porridge – add more water if it is too thick.
Garnish with green onions, parsley, pepitas and a drizzle of olive oil.
Serves 8.
– Adapted from “Vegana Italiana: The Traditional Plant-Based Italian Method” by Tara Bonzone with Jane Stone
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