In international politics, not every message is delivered through speeches or formal agreements. Sometimes, it arrives on the plate. A new analysis of 457 Portuguese state menus, spanning more than a century, shows that official meals often have diplomatic meaning woven into their dishes.
Published in Frontiers in political scienceThe study found that these lists quietly shaped foreign relations—signaling political priorities, strengthening alliances, and expressing national identity in ways that words alone cannot.
Oscar Cabral, the first author of the article, said in an article published by the British newspaper “Daily Mail”: “These meals play an important role as diplomatic institutions in the implementation and continuity of Portuguese foreign policy.” press release. “It demonstrates how culinary and gastronomic practices facilitated diplomatic negotiations and provided opportunities for cultural exchange, political messaging, and the transmission of Portuguese culture.”
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Transitions in status menu
Portugal’s government menus have changed along with the country’s political priorities. In the early twentieth century, formal banquets relied heavily on haute French cuisine. But by the Estado Novo era, Portugal had begun to highlight its regions and ingredients – a shift that culminated in Queen Elizabeth II’s “regional lunch” in 1957. Subsequent decades brought new references: rare dishes like turtle soup and Azorean trout emphasized exclusivity, while the post-colonial period saw menus quietly abandon references associated with empire.
In recent years, the messages have become more direct, with the names of the dishes themselves reflecting the issues on the agenda.
“Menus can be intentionally designed to convey political messages and communicate non-gastronomic aspects,” Cabral explained. “For example, the COP25 meal in Madrid used dish names like ‘Warm Seas. Eating imbalance” and “Urgent. Reduce animal protein to draw attention to climate issues.
What 457 diplomatic dinners reveal
In this study, the team analyzed 457 diplomatic lists from 1910 to 2023, treating each one as a political document. They recorded attendance, how courses were organized, where ingredients were sourced, and how dishes were described.
From this data set, the researchers identified five distinct diplomatic roles. Tactical meals were characterized by sensitive visits or territorial shifts. Geopolitical takeaways have reaffirmed alliances across Europe and within NATO. Economic diplomacy highlights components linked to trade or export markets. The Science, Culture and Development meals have aligned Portugal with joint projects. Cultural proximity meals strengthened relations with Portuguese-speaking countries.
“In strengthening these relationships, menus intentionally showcase products closely linked to a shared national gastronomy, such as Cozido à Portuguesa (Portuguese soup) or cod recipes,” Cabral said in the press release.
Case studies showed how these jobs shaped what came to the plate. Cultural proximity meals rely on salted cod, stews and familiar regional staples to indicate shared heritage. Economic and diplomatic dinners emphasized products associated with major export sectors, such as wine or specialty seafood. Geopolitical meals often retained a formal Franco-European structure – clear broths, fish entrees, restrained desserts – to demonstrate stability and continuity to the Allies.
When a dish forms the brand of a nation
The authors argue that food deserves a place alongside language, values and traditions in how Portugal presents itself to the world.
“Our study shows how national cuisines can be used strategically to enhance a country’s global standing,” Cabral said.
The analysis is limited to gaps in the historical record, and some menu options, such as the roast beef served to the President of India in 1990, remain unexplained. However, the findings suggest that what a country serves can shape how it is seen long after the plaques are removed.
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