I thought Giraffe Manor was the coolest place to stay in the world, and then I found this place

There’s a good chance you haven’t heard of it Saruni Samburu. And I wasn’t, at least until I found myself hopping down a steep, rocky road in northern Kenya, almost convinced we were lost. The road twisted up the side of a cliff, dust swirling behind us. Our driver smiled, called it the “Saroni Highway,” and promised that the climb would be worth it.

She already had a lot to live for. My husband and I just came from Giraffe Manor In Nairobi – the hotel where giraffes poke their heads through your window while you eat breakfast. It’s the place that floods your Instagram feed, the place everyone knows about. I didn’t think anything could top it. Then we reached the edge of the cliff, and the ground fell beneath us.

Saruni Samburu slowly reveals itself: a collection of villas built into volcanic rock, set atop 200,000 acres of pristine wilderness in the Kalama Reserve. The heat shimmered, and the sky stretched on forever. For the first time on that trip, everything became quiet.

Lodge on the edge of the wilderness

Saruni Samburu Small – just six villas, each tucked into the abyss as if it had grown there on its own. My husband and I stayed in Villa 3, a short walk from the main lodge. “Short” is relative when it’s already hitting ninety degrees before breakfast, but once we got inside, the heat didn’t matter.

The villa opens onto the valley. There was a separate bedroom, a sitting and dining area, and a balcony overlooking miles of untouched land. There was a small refrigerator containing cold drinks, and a jug of filtered water next to reusable bottles. Laundry service was included – a small mercy when the bush plane limit is 33 pounds per person (and my camera gear pushes 20 pounds!).

The bathroom felt like an outdoor spa with twin sinks, a deep soaking tub, and a shower open to the sky. The water pressure was perfect, and the handmade soap smelled lightly of cedarwood and herbs. I’m still upset that I didn’t buy it from the gift shop.

between drives

The afternoon moved in slow motion. The heat blanketed the inn with silence, and most guests drifted toward the infinity pools. Located near the main area; The other is higher, with a view looking straight into eternity. Monkeys would sometimes loiter by the water, watching us as if we were modernity.

There is a small spa as well. My husband used our complimentary massage while I sat poolside with a book, too lazy to turn the pages. At Saruni, doing nothing feels like part of the rhythm.

When evening came, staff set up beanbags next to the outdoor bar for stargazing. Benson, the head bartender and resident stargazer, pointed out the constellations with a laser, his voice low and steady. It’s hard to describe how vast the sky looked so far from the city lights – as if someone had turned the world upside down and let the stars fall.

Meals worth remembering

Food was not something I expected to pay attention to here. You’re hours away from the nearest grocery store, but every meal feels thoughtful and fresh. The inn has an Italian feel with handmade pasta, crunchy salads and warm bread. Lunch and dinner were three courses but never heavy. (I still dream about the food Saruni serves.)

Every morning, we had coffee and cookies delivered to our door before sunrise. Later, we would stop at the river for breakfast: pancakes, bacon, fruit, and yogurt. One time, we watched elephants grazing while we ate. I remember thinking this is what quiet happiness feels like.

One night, the staff surprised us with dinner under the stars. They lit a fire and invited a number of Samburu dancers to sing. The fire was burning, the night was warm, and it felt like the world had shrunk into that circle of light.

Guides who bring the Earth to life

Our guide, Simone Lebasile, grew up in this area. His tracking skills seemed impossible. He can see the tiger through the brush as he tells stories about his childhood here.

On the afternoon of our first day, we saw a lioness calling for her lost cubs, her haunting voice echoing across the hills. On our final morning, Simon suddenly stopped the jeep and pointed out some small footprints, no bigger than those of a house cat. He followed them until we found her again, this time with her babies beside her in a dense bush.

It was an emotional moment that made me realize how much these guides read the Earth in ways we could never achieve. The joy of the other Saruni guides crackling over the radio upon hearing this news is also something I will never forget. The Samburu guides truly care about the land and its animals.

Each villa also has its own private host who handles every meal and beverage. Another Simon, it seems, appears when we need him: coffee at dawn, cold water in the afternoon, wine at sunset. His kindness made the stay feel personal rather than polished.

A different kind of safari

The Samburu does not compete with the Masai Mara; It tells a different story. Although animal sightings are not as abundant as in the Mara, you will have to work a little for them. There are also no hordes of safari vehicles congregating around the animals, as there are in the Mara. This is a place untouched by mass tourism, a truly wild place.

It’s home to the ‘Samburu Special Five’ – animals you won’t find this far south: the reticulated giraffe, Grevy’s zebra, Somali ostrich, gerenuk and oryx besa. We saw them all, plus herds of elephants so large that it felt like the earth itself was moving. Samburu has a lot of elephants. It’s amazing.

How we booked it

I planned this trip through Go2Africaa travel company recommended by other travelers I trust. Lauren, our consultant, paired us with Saruni Lodges and made everything seamless.

We visited in February, mid-season. At the time, prices started at around $700 per person per night, including meals, game drives, drinks and transfers. Sundowners—those cocktails you sip as the sun sets behind the hills—come standard, not extra.

For what it offers, it’s worth every cent.

What’s left with me?

On our final morning, I stood on the porch watching the light shift over the valley. The air was still, except for the faint sounds of birds waking up somewhere below.

Giraffe Manor It was unforgettable, however Saruni Samburu Leave a different mark. Samburu is not about theatrical performances or photo shoots. It’s about space – the kind that expands your sense of time and leaves you calmer inside.

I rarely return to the same destination twice. There’s a lot of world left to see. But I would climb that rocky road again without hesitation.

You can see more of our stay at Saruni Samburu in the full YouTube video below.

If you are planning a similar trip, You can read my post on What to wear on safari in Kenya For practical packing tips and outfit ideas. And if you’re interested in another unforgettable stay, here you are My full story about Saronni Reno – where we tracked the endangered black rhino on foot.